One of the dearest memories brought home from Istanbul (often packed in boxes and eaten away quickly) is the taste of baklava, a syrupy sweet made with numerous layers of paper-thin dough, or yufka, brushed with butter and sprinkled with honey and ground pistachio, hazelnut or walnut. It is no surprise that so many countries in the Middle East, the Balkans and the Caucasus claim it was them giving birth to baklava long time back and ever since they have been having their fingers in every baklava tray.
Well, this exquisite dessert spared for special occasions and festivities deserves the competition. Yet if you take a look at the role that baklava plays in the Turkish diet now you will have not doubts left that baklava belongs here.
Baklava in Turkey enjoys next to religious importance: it has a dedicated following with regular practice by even non-believers who tend to convert from the first bite. No wonder that famous baklava house Güllüoglu in Istanbul at a random time of the day looks like a mosque around the prayer time. I guess it is what they meant in the Lonely Planet when calling this place “shrine to baklava”. Güllüoglu (and for that matter - any baklava specialist, or baklavaci) is not a dessert shop with romantic interiors and carefree flocks of teenage girls giggling over a pink cream cake. Here instead you will find grand interiors, solemn appearance of the men at the counters and customers (again, mostly men) silently meditating over a serving of the syrupy miracle.
Take a moment to think of the reasons: baklava is made of nuts and honey, which are nothing else but proven aphrodisiacs. Here comes the second name of baklava suggested by the locals - Turkish Viagra. Consider yourself warned .. and definitely get a portion when you are in Istanbul! And if you want to be very naughty then you should definitely savor chocolate baklava, an aphrodisiac squared.
Useful address: Main Güllüoglu Shop is located next to the Karaköy dock (Rıhtım Caddesi, Katlı Otopark Altı No: 3-4).
How it works: Head out to the counter what serves portions (versus takeaway boxes), gather yourself, keep calm yet and point at the ones you like - despite there is a default portion size you can also order as much as you like of any type you fancy. Once you get your plate full head out to the counter to pay; there you could also order coffee or tea to wash down the dessert - they are served at the beverage counter. Locals pay first and then get their baklava but it takes years to shape your baklava likes and get confident with choices so go ahead and try them all first.
And now let me ask you - what has been you baklava experiences in Istanbul, Turkey or elsewhere? Any favorite types, places to savor, interesting observations? I am looking forward to hearing from you.
Stephen June 18, 2011 at 8:42 pm
Nice article. Unfortunately it is not that easy to “ask for a version without flour” in Istanbul even with some knowledge of Turkish language. Most locals simply is not aware that something like coeliac disease exists. Also some of the products listed above are not 100% gluten free, things like halva and lokum (turkish delight) better to be bought from companies who state that it is gluten free (like Koska) to avoid a risk of cross-contamination.
Regarding IHE gluten free bread it is really gluten free. There are some specific rules regarding adding wheat starch to the gluten free products.