Şato Balık: Dream Fish Dinner (That You Are Likely To Miss Out)

There is a fish restaurant in Istanbul you are least likely to end up at. It will be way too far and way less comilfo. And I am sorry for all of you in advance. Because you may miss the lifetime experience of the fish dining. Ask my friends and family whom we gathered last week for our wedding and using that as disguise subjected them to my favorite things to do in Istanbul.

They were so concerned, my family and friends, about how Turkish weddings are and whether they will be appropriate with their clothing, gifts and expectations. I wanted to show them their concerns were vain. We danced a night away at Al Jamal with the girls (put together all your Harem fantasies with male belly-dancers and male servants, you get the idea), then got pampered in 17th century hamam the morning after, took a ride to our countryside house in Sapanca where our guests were treated to the pacifying ambiance, stunning views and superb food that my mother-in-law was turning non-stop. Day after the ceremony and festivities all dressed white we headed out back to Istanbul for a fish dinner by the Bosphorus.

I have been wanting that dinner for a year. Since the first time Özgür brought me to Şato. He said, “They are almost on the Black Sea and have very fresh fish because the fishing boats drop off the catch as they pass by”. With so much fish around and no lack of fish restaurants in Istanbul I did not get very impressed with this description a year ago. But one year down the line after eating at a whole bunch of Istanbul fish restaurants I can appreciate it fully. Şato does turn the freshest fish you get to eat in Istanbul.

I still remember that first visit of ours to Şato last October. We drove and drove along the Bosphorus past a fish restaurant after a fish restaurant. Until we came to Sariyer, a small fishermen village since the time immemorial, also known for its profiling börek makers and the tomb of Telli Baba, a saint young men and women visit with their matrimonial requests and then gratitude if the requests were heard. We drove through the village up and down and then up again until we reached a sandy beach and a long L-shaped white building standing on it. It was Şato, a Black Sea castle. The castle’s interior was decorated with fishing nets, rescue rings, posters explaining Black Sea fish breeds and other equally exciting objects. A stooping middle age man in a white short approached our table, Özgür stood up and cheek-kissed with him, “Mustafa was a teenage boy helping the service when I first came here with my parents. Look, he’s become a partner now”.

Then followed Özgür’s stories. How his parents were regulars here and brought him when he was a young kid. How years later teenage enterprising Özgür was making deals with the place that consented to serve beer to minors so that my husband was bringing groups (!) of 30-40 lycee friends for a meal of fish and beer. How his parents once had their table set up on the beach and took a dip in the Bosphorus amidst the meal. I was hooked. Not with the organization skills which Özgür demonstrated already during his lycee time but with the prospect of having a fish meal on the beach.”Let’s do that next summer,” I exclaimed excitedly and he nodded.

We got back this September. With two dozen people. Dressed in white, tired from the festivities but still ready to go with anything we offer. This is why I love my family and friends: they mostly go with my crazy idea I may have. You ask them dress in white and they do so without questioning the very need. You take them to the end of the Bosphorus and they trust you do it for a good reason.

At the sight of the water, the coming sunset and the long white table set for us we started running around, taking photos and posing. I believe there is magic in the sea. Maybe it is the fact that we all come out of water and as we get close to water again we feel safe to the point of careless childish happiness. Deeply moved I said, “You all look so beautiful in white and under this soft light that I can’t stop looking at you, admiring you and taking photos of you”. Had to put away the camera though as the trays of food started arriving and we enthusiastically started attacking the delights.

We had white feta-like cheese and sweet melting-in-your-mouth melon (particularly appreciate by our rakı-drinking party), biting acılı esmesi (a hit with my vodka drinking uncle) and tender roasted eggplant puree, stuffed mussels. Then came the hots: dipped in the dough and deep-fried mussels (my parents could not give enough praise for) and squid rings - both so tender inside and crunchy outside that all those cooking rubber out frozen sea food should feel eternal shame. Then curled little shrimps sauteed with green peppers and mushrooms in liberal quantities of butter. Your Doğa Balık just hundred times more down to earth.

As my aunt said, “Everytime you surprise us more and more” we asked for the main. “I suggest whiting”, said Mustafa as it was getting dark. “Pan-fried, no bones, easy to eat”. Little disappointed with the lack of viable options I agreed. Generous portions of whiting started arriving once we were through with the starters and what I have learned from this wedding preparations proved true again. You have to trust people. You have selected them to do the job on the first place - so explain yourself at the onset and then just leave them to do their job. Like my hairdresser who gave me shiver when I saw the kilograms of equipment she brought but who then created the makeup and hair I loved, like my mother-in-law who objected to anything we suggested and then set up the marvelous feast, like our decoration friend who I feared will turn the place into that flashy glittering Turkish extravaganza and who ended up creating the very elegant setting I wanted. Like Mustafa who recommended the best fish you can wish for. Juicy, flaky, delicious, bone-free filets of whiting, white in color fish with rather dense flesh.

After the fish (and yes - some rakı, vodka and white wine) we got up to test the waters. I saw my mom running along the shore and laughing as splashes of the salty water were reaching her skirt. I saw my friend Olesia who was photographing the wedding rushing to set the tripod and catch that moonwalk. I saw others talking off their shoes and jumping to meet the waves and pose for yet another photo. I saw my friend’s husband coming of the water after a dip and all of us greeting him with the round of applause. We were a bunch of kids being let out and left to do what they want. It was the wind, the sea, the fresh fish, the long white table, the most extravagant fish restaurant of Istanbul, the Telli Baba magic, my wedding.

Practical information: Şato Balık. Address: Rumeli Kavağı İskele caddesi No:6 Sarıyer. Phone: (212) 218 46 66. Average bill - 60-70 TL per person with alcohol excluding tip. Come an hour before the sunset. Follow waiter’s recommendation on the fish main. Table on the beach can be arranged on special request in the evenings during the summer months - additional service fee may apply. And yes, if sitting outside dress warm - it gets very very windy.