Recipes: Baking

Kerebiç Cookie by Olga Tikhonova Irez of Delicious Istanbul

I knew I had to make kerebiç cookies since the first time I saw the molds. There was a strange familiarity in these wooden beauties carrying geometrical messages carved on their shaping cavity. Some of those carvings had a clear reference to the cross, an archetypal sign that for any Christian including myself has am important religious reference that I would least associate with the South-East of Turkey where the cookies are coming from. Also, kerebiç molds remotely resembled gingerbread molds used in Russia to make pryaniki, or what outside of my home country goes by the name of Russian tea cakes.

Clearly, kerebiç cookies had to happen, and I bought a few molds. Little I knew back then how this purchase would bring me to the discovery of endless cultural, religious and culinary bonds between so many countries.

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Meaningful Corn Crackers

Corn Crackers

I lost my sleep after the last visit to Kantin, not your typical Istanbul canteen catering to the working crowd of the upscale district of Nişantasi. I was that thrilled not by the discussion of entering Azerbaijan market held by the industrialists at the next table and not even by my show-stopping salad. What kept me thinking for a week was a package of crackers I bought at their store downstairs.

The crackers were long and generously seasoned with your typical Turkish greatness: coriander seeds, nigella seeds, poppy seeds, dry mint and tomato paste. Kantin’s crackers are made of the “stolen” (as Şemsa Denizsel, the chef and proprietor puts it) sourdough purposed for the bread . I bought a bag of crackers and it was a big hit with my family that loves their tea time savory bits. So I set to work to find out how to make such crackers if you don’t have sourdough handy (phew).

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Rustic Dill Biscuits

Rustic Dill Biscuits

One thing is obvious about Turkish baking. It is what has become trendy to call rustic. Set aside baklava and Turkish attempts to recreate French pastry and you will see something awkwardly shaped without much fuss and frills. Cut with a tea class, shaped with a fork, or pressed with fingertips. Rustic was a necessity decades ago as women were juggling the chords of raising many children, working in a field, doing homework and cooking. With less children per houseful and no working in the fields rustic has become a fashion. So these dill biscuits of mine are terribly trendy.

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My Very Turkish Persimmon Bread

My Very Turkish Persimmon Bread

Thank you for the encouraging response to the Turkish Baking Quest that kicked off last Wednesday. And yes, it was Paskalya Çoreği flavored with mahlep that could be found in many Istanbul pastry shops year round but specifically around the Easter. Thanks for those who have taken part! Here comes one more Wednesday, more baking and yes, a chance to win a set of 5 fantastic Turkish baking ingredients.

Today I would like to dream. About how Turkish baking could be. With a bit of butter lavishness. And more experimental use of the local ingredients. Like persimmons..
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Turkish Mini Simit Recipe

It is still rather warm in Istanbul. 22C by day. It has snowed somewhere. Or so I hear from my sister who’s very close to the Russian-Finnish border these days. I am not sure what’s the snow outlook for Istanbul this year. But I know it will get colder here in a few weeks too. And I will start baking.

This baking season I have decided to go beyond selfish cravings for moist chocolate cakes and upside down cakes. Who needs another recipe for those really? Instead I am going to introduce you to more of Turkish baking - from Istanbul pastry shops, from regular Turkish homes, from my frivolous baking dreams. Join my Turkish baking quest and win a set of fantastic cooking condiments you can bake with (and not only!) from Istanbul!

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Poğaça Turkish Cheese Pastry

The whole week I am playing a kitchen patroness. Because I am replacing one. Anne has got her cancer treatment and at a rehabilitation right now. She would not be able to go outside for a few weeks. When leaving she said, “Now, you are on duty“. And so I am. I thought it would be straightforward but more often than not I wish she was nearby so I could show her my cookie dough and ask whether the texture was right.

But I am nailing it down. Last night I realized that 80% of over the dozen courses we served for dinner were made by me. I guess if the customers of Zeliş Çifliği had realized that this young foreign woman feeding them many would have been shocked. Because Turkish food is such a sacred domain and outsiders have no clue. Anyway, making food was a breeze. Unlike the morning baking.

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Greek Easter Bread

Everything got little twisted as it usually happens with me: I baked the Greek Easter bread known as Paskalya Çöreği in Turkey for my Orthodox Easter this Sunday morning. I know only a few of you would share the Easter sentiment but maybe you can understand how it feels not to be “normal” most of the time. I blame it on being Russian, being a woman, sometimes on both. Sometimes there is nothing left to blame it on so I take the blame.

My Easter is different from yours, I don’t celebrate Christmas but have all those Christmas delights for the New Year. Take whatever place in the world - I am either not from there or I have left it long time ago to identify with it. I am a Russian married to a Turk: but not that kind of Russian and not that kind of Turk you most likely to know about. I gave up trying to resolve my concerns about all that and have learned to embrace and celebrate my abnormal ways. So why not on Orthodox Easter - April, 15 2012?

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