I lost my sleep after the last visit to Kantin, not your typical Istanbul canteen catering to the working crowd of the upscale district of Nişantasi. I was that thrilled not by the discussion of entering Azerbaijan market held by the industrialists at the next table and not even by my show-stopping salad. What kept me thinking for a week was a package of crackers I bought at their store downstairs.
The crackers were long and generously seasoned with your typical Turkish greatness: coriander seeds, nigella seeds, poppy seeds, dry mint and tomato paste. Kantin’s crackers are made of the “stolen” (as Şemsa Denizsel, the chef and proprietor puts it) sourdough purposed for the bread . I bought a bag of crackers and it was a big hit with my family that loves their tea time savory bits. So I set to work to find out how to make such crackers if you don’t have sourdough handy (phew).
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One thing is obvious about Turkish baking. It is what has become trendy to call rustic. Set aside baklava and Turkish attempts to recreate French pastry and you will see something awkwardly shaped without much fuss and frills. Cut with a tea class, shaped with a fork, or pressed with fingertips. Rustic was a necessity decades ago as women were juggling the chords of raising many children, working in a field, doing homework and cooking. With less children per houseful and no working in the fields rustic has become a fashion. So these dill biscuits of mine are terribly trendy.
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‘How is your mother-in-law?’ I hear these days almost after the “How are you?’. My friends, my family back home, customers of my Istanbul cooking classes and walks who have been reading this blog and know that my mother-in-law was diagnosed with cancer last November and went through a radiation therapy 2 months ago. ‘She is rocking’, I usually answer because despite all her health complains she has been really active at the kitchen. Until it occurred to me that the worse she feels the more she is rocking.
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Thank you for the encouraging response to the Turkish Baking Quest that kicked off last Wednesday. And yes, it was Paskalya Çoreği flavored with mahlep that could be found in many Istanbul pastry shops year round but specifically around the Easter. Thanks for those who have taken part! Here comes one more Wednesday, more baking and yes, a chance to win a set of 5 fantastic Turkish baking ingredients.
Today I would like to dream. About how Turkish baking could be. With a bit of butter lavishness. And more experimental use of the local ingredients. Like persimmons..
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It is still rather warm in Istanbul. 22C by day. It has snowed somewhere. Or so I hear from my sister who’s very close to the Russian-Finnish border these days. I am not sure what’s the snow outlook for Istanbul this year. But I know it will get colder here in a few weeks too. And I will start baking.
This baking season I have decided to go beyond selfish cravings for moist chocolate cakes and upside down cakes. Who needs another recipe for those really? Instead I am going to introduce you to more of Turkish baking - from Istanbul pastry shops, from regular Turkish homes, from my frivolous baking dreams. Join my Turkish baking quest and win a set of fantastic cooking condiments you can bake with (and not only!) from Istanbul!
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