I lost my sleep after the last visit to Kantin, not your typical Istanbul canteen catering to the working crowd of the upscale district of Nişantasi. I was that thrilled not by the discussion of entering Azerbaijan market held by the industrialists at the next table and not even by my show-stopping salad. What kept me thinking for a week was a package of crackers I bought at their store downstairs.
The crackers were long and generously seasoned with your typical Turkish greatness: coriander seeds, nigella seeds, poppy seeds, dry mint and tomato paste. Kantin’s crackers are made of the “stolen” (as Şemsa Denizsel, the chef and proprietor puts it) sourdough purposed for the bread . I bought a bag of crackers and it was a big hit with my family that loves their tea time savory bits. So I set to work to find out how to make such crackers if you don’t have sourdough handy (phew).
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Jotham and Seda both studied to become diplomats but it took them many not-so-diplomatic pursuits until they set off on a mission. Armed with serious culinary background, experience of living abroad and many dreams they have come to Istanbul to bring about the food revolution.
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Photo courtesy Jotham Sietsma
One thing is obvious about Turkish baking. It is what has become trendy to call rustic. Set aside baklava and Turkish attempts to recreate French pastry and you will see something awkwardly shaped without much fuss and frills. Cut with a tea class, shaped with a fork, or pressed with fingertips. Rustic was a necessity decades ago as women were juggling the chords of raising many children, working in a field, doing homework and cooking. With less children per houseful and no working in the fields rustic has become a fashion. So these dill biscuits of mine are terribly trendy.
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If you pass by and glance at the window of Gram you would be sure it is a pastry shop. With gigantic meringues, with tiny sandwiches where pungent tulum cheese is hidden between the toasted buns and with best-looking brownies in Istanbul. You would think it is yet another Turkish take on foreign food which makes you long for the original. You would be so wrong. Because if you - with Alice-like courage to enter a rabbit hole - pass the meringues-graced counter you will see a small dining room and equally small kitchen. And this is an attempt to show how Turkish food can be exciting and trendy. This is Gram.
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‘How is your mother-in-law?’ I hear these days almost after the “How are you?’. My friends, my family back home, customers of my Istanbul cooking classes and walks who have been reading this blog and know that my mother-in-law was diagnosed with cancer last November and went through a radiation therapy 2 months ago. ‘She is rocking’, I usually answer because despite all her health complains she has been really active at the kitchen. Until it occurred to me that the worse she feels the more she is rocking.
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I am surprised I have not written much about managing leftovers and food waste yet. This is something I am dealing with every day. Where you see food I see potential for leftovers and waste. 2 kg zucchini at our restaurant kitchen misplaced and accidentally frozen and now way to soft for anything. Filled up but never finished plates coming back during our weekend brunch buffet. Too much food left and no one around to finish it after my Istanbul cooking classes. I hate throwing away food and what to do with the food waste and leftovers for me is a question of ethics, of economic sense but even more so - of respect to all the people whose sweat and love the food is seasoned with.
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Thank you for the encouraging response to the Turkish Baking Quest that kicked off last Wednesday. And yes, it was Paskalya Çoreği flavored with mahlep that could be found in many Istanbul pastry shops year round but specifically around the Easter. Thanks for those who have taken part! Here comes one more Wednesday, more baking and yes, a chance to win a set of 5 fantastic Turkish baking ingredients.
Today I would like to dream. About how Turkish baking could be. With a bit of butter lavishness. And more experimental use of the local ingredients. Like persimmons..
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